Sugar Rush

In the opening minutes, we see five-year-old Mario having rotten teeth extracted in the operating theatre under general anaesthetic, with Oliver standing awkwardly alongside, nearly in tears.

Later, we are in the podiatry clinic, looking at close-up shots of the stumps of people with type-2 diabetes who have had their feet amputated. When Oliver flicks a stack of the 40 sugar cubes people in Britain consume every day in their food and fizzy pop across the room, we know where we are going.

It’s 10 years on from School Dinners and the chef is on a new crusade, a war against the added sugar in our diet that he blames for the rising epidemic of bad teeth and type-2 diabetes that, he claims, could finally scupper our crumbling NHS – costing £30m and £8.8bn a year respectively.

Then there is Mexico, where even babies are given Coca Cola but the tide has begun to turn, thanks to a consumer movement that won the battle with government for a tax on sugary drinks.